Weaving the future in Burkina Faso
How collaboration is shaping textile traditions in Africa
Handcrafted textiles are more than just fabric; they carry the stories of generations, embody cultural heritage, and create sustainable livelihoods. In an era dominated by mass production, the collaboration between Andrea Lénon, founder of The Corner in Belgium, and cotton artisans in Burkina Faso stands out as an example of how craftsmanship can thrive in the global market while preserving its authenticity.
Sarah Charles talked with Andrea and four cotton artisans from Burkina Faso – Bonkana Maïga, natural plant-based dyeing artisan, Dakuyo Mabourou, weaver, Lankoandé Madama, spinner, and Yacoro Karfa, Director of CABES Gie, a network of 2,400 organic cotton artisans in Burkina Faso – who share insights into their partnership, the challenges and opportunities of African craftsmanship, and how international collaborations can foster a more inclusive and sustainable creative economy.
The interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
Andrea, what drew you to work with African artisans for The Corner?
I have always followed my instincts and emotions when selecting materials and techniques. About eight years ago, I discovered Bogolan* textiles in Paris and was captivated. I decided to explore artisanal production in Mali, but I encountered challenges with consistency and reliability. Eventually, through ITC’s Ethical Fashion Initiative I found CABES in Burkina Faso, and our collaboration flourished.
African craftsmanship has a sensitivity and uniqueness that deeply resonates with me. It is essential we elevate handcrafted work to counteract the overwhelming presence of mass production. Supporting artisans means sustaining these skills for future generations. In Europe, many traditional crafts have already disappeared. We must appreciate handmade items that hold real value, rather than mass-produced goods that are easily discarded.
What are the challenges to integrating these textiles in your collections?
Pricing remains the biggest challenge. Handmade products naturally cost more than bulk-produced alternatives. European consumers are accustomed to low-cost home decor, and it takes education to convey the value of artisanal work.
Another issue is the use of natural dyes. Unlike chemical dyes, they are eco-friendly and sustainable but require careful handling to maintain colour consistency.
* ‘Bogolan’ is a handmade cotton fabric traditionally dyed with fermented mud, originally from Mali and practiced in Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea and Senegal.
Can you describe the textile-making process and the challenges you are facing?
Lankoandé Madama (Spinner): Filature, or spinning, is an intricate process. Traditionally, women in Burkina Faso spin cotton by hand using a spindle. This slow technique is beautiful but inefficient, which is why we were trained in using spinning wheels. I work with a collective of 40 women, producing 100% organic cotton thread. Our biggest challenge remains market access. We need consistent buyers to sustain our production.
Dakuyo Mabourou (Weaver): I am from the Boucle du Mouhoun region, from the city of Nouna. Weaving is a generational craft in my family, dating back to my ancestors. I sit close to the ground, using a traditional loom to create patterns. The weaving process involves soaking the thread for 24 hours to soften it before stretching it onto the loom. While I love my craft, modern buyers often demand uniformity, expecting handmade textiles to look like factory-made ones. Each piece is unique – a direct reflection of the artisan’s skill and creativity.
Bonkana Maïga (Dyer): I work with natural dyes from plants, roots, leaves, fruits, and even iron-rich clay from rice fields. Creating colours like deep indigo or warm browns requires patience. Unlike chemical dyes, which give immediate results, natural dyeing is a gradual, layered process. No two batches are exactly alike, making every textile distinct.
What impact has the collaboration with The Corner and ITC had on your community?
Yacoro Karfa (Director, CABES): The partnership has been transformational. It ensures a fair income for artisans, enabling them to support their families, pay for education, and access healthcare.
Our collaboration reflects the value of a fully local supply chain—from cotton farming to spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing.
Andrea, how do you select artisans, and how do you maintain quality control?
I work closely with CABES, which oversees quality assurance and artisan selection. The textiles must meet high standards while respecting the artisans' creative integrity. I value the uniqueness of each piece, so I embrace slight variations as part of the handmade charm.
What are the biggest challenges in selling these products in Europe?
Pricing and consumer expectations. Handmade textiles are not standardized like factory-produced ones. My customers appreciate this uniqueness, but the broader market still needs to understand why artisan-made products carry a higher price. However, more consumers are recognizing the importance of sustainability and ethical sourcing, which is promising.
How can African craftsmanship position itself as a premium product internationally?
The key is adaptation without losing authenticity. For instance, while traditional Bogolan textiles often feature vibrant colors, I found that European customers prefer neutral, earth-toned palettes.
By adjusting colour schemes and applications – such as creating home decor pieces like cushion covers and bed throws – we make traditional techniques more appealing to modern interiors. The goal is to evolve tradition while preserving its essence.
Andrea, what future projects do you have planned with Burkina Faso's artisans?
We are expanding our collaboration to explore new dyeing techniques and product designs. I am also committed to finding additional markets to ensure long-term sustainability for the artisans.
We want to continue innovating while staying true to traditional methods.
How do you as artisans see local craftsmanship evolving through these collaborations?
Bonkana Maïga: Our traditions remain sacred, but we are always learning and evolving. Working with Andrea has encouraged us to experiment with new colours and techniques that we sometimes integrate in our products for the local market as well. These partnerships keep our craft alive and relevant for new generations.
Yacoro Karfa: Through international collaborations, we gain new perspectives and expand our markets. The world is starting to appreciate the value of handmade craftsmanship, and we are proud to be part of this movement.
The collaboration between The Corner in Belgium and CABES cotton artisans in Burkina Faso takes place under the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre (ITC). It is supported by the ACP Business-Friendly programme, implemented by ITC’s Alliances for Action and Ethical Fashion Initiatives and funded by the European Union and the Organisation of African, Caribbean, and Pacific States. The ACP Business-Friendly programme has provided spinning wheels and trainings to improve efficiency, productivity, and incomes in communities of women weavers, training over 700 women across the country.
