Spinning change: Finding opportunity through cotton in Burkina Faso

In the rural commune of Saye in northern Burkina Faso, 27-year-old Sarata Ouédraogo has found new purpose through an age-old craft: cotton spinning.

Married with three children, Sarata is one of 40 women selected in her community to take part in the EU-ACP Business-Friendly programme, implemented by ITC in partnership with the Zoodo Association for the Promotion of Women (AZPF). For the past three years, she has been spinning organic cotton using a traditional wheel.

‘I was identified by AZPF, who were initially raising awareness about sanitation,’ says Sarata. ‘Then they told us about the programme and said they wanted to train people in areas like spinning. That’s how I was selected.’

AZPF unites 463 artisans across 37 urban and rural communes, including nine involved in the ACP programme. In 2020, 280 women were selected for training – 200 in spinning and 80 in weaving. Though not all were AZPF members or owned equipment, they received 200 spinning wheels and 80 looms to support their learning.

With support from the association, Sarata joined the RELWENDE cooperative in Saye. She and other women received three months of training, followed by ongoing skills development. The cotton they produce is now purchased through the programme, providing income that helps cover basic family needs like food, clothing, and healthcare.

‘We started producing, and the EU-ACP Business Friendly programme buys our yarn. That allows us to meet our basic needs,’ Sarata explains.

Each participant can spin up to two kg of cotton yarn per week. The yarn is bought at 3,500 CFA francs per kg for warp (the vertical threads in a fabric) and 3,000 CFA francs per kg for weft (the horizontal threads on a loom that are passed over and under to make cloth). 

Participants also received training on responsible business practices, cooperative management, and environmental sustainability, including the dangers of plastic pollution.

The goal is to strengthen sustainable agricultural value chains and improve the competitiveness of agribusinesses in the region.

‘Before the project, I didn’t have any activity. I stayed at home. But now I work, I earn a little, and that’s better than nothing,’ says Sarata. ‘I thank God because before, I had to rely on others. Now, I can earn something myself.’

About the projects

ACP Business-Friendly Programme

The ACP Business-Friendly Programme is funded by the European Union and the Organisation of African, Caribbean and Pacific States (OACPS) and jointly implemented by ITC’s Alliances for Action, the World Bank and UNIDO. It seeks to improve the ability of agribusiness firms in ACP countries to compete, grow and prosper in domestic, regional, and international markets. Through the Alliances for Action approach, it promotes inclusive and sustainable agricultural value chains that value all stakeholders from farm to shelf.

Ethical Fashion Initiative

The Ethical Fashion Initiative is a flagship program of the International Trade Centre (ITC), a joint agency of the United Nations and the World Trade Organization. Its aim is to make businesses in developing countries more competitive on world markets, accelerate economic development, and contribute to achieving the United Nations Millennium Development Goals. 

Since its launch in 2009, the Ethical Fashion Initiative has been connecting marginalized communities of artisans with leading names in the lifestyle sector, including fashion, interior design and food. By producing for these international brands, artisans and micro-entrepreneurs have the opportunity to improve their quality of life through ethical work that values their know-how. 

The Ethical Fashion Initiative's unique model, centered on the private sector, enables the production of luxury goods in the most complex environments. 

To achieve this, our teams work closely with designers and buyers around the world to develop contemporary products inspired by the craftsmanship of each region.