Creating fashion looks exclusively made and sourced in Africa

African-owned cotton and fashion value chains remain rare, as local production often focuses on raw material export rather than finished goods.

Fashion designers from Benin, Burkina Faso and Mali were recently connected to weavers in the same countries in a project seeking to reverse that trend by showcasing the full potential of African cotton – from field to fashion – through local craftsmanship and innovative partnerships.

Nine talented fashion designers from Benin, Mali, and Burkina Faso committed to promoting ‘Made in Africa’ connected with African artisans, including weavers and material suppliers. These specialists in handwoven cotton embody the rich heritage of African textile traditions.

‘Working closely with these artisans was inspiring,’ said Nadia Adanle, a fashion designer from Couleur Indigo in Benin. ‘Their skills in handweaving brought a unique authenticity to our designs. This project wasn’t just about creating garments; it was about telling a story of tradition and innovation.’

Each designer was provided with 20–25 metres of handwoven cotton, and their challenge was to create two impactful looks, ensuring 90% of the materials were locally sourced.

The fabrics, including Faso Danfani and Koko Dunda, came from artisans like Martine Bougma and her team from Tindaanyenma workshop in Burkina Faso.

‘Seeing our fabrics transformed into high-fashion designs was incredible,’ said Martine. ‘It gave us a sense of pride and joy knowing that our work contributes to a global conversation about sustainability and craftsmanship.’

The process was highly collaborative, with regular feedback sessions between designers, artisans, and EFI coordinators to enable future collaborations between designers and artisans.

African designs in industry spotlight

A gala showcased the 20-look collection to over 300 industry stakeholders. The collection seamlessly blended traditional African craftsmanship with contemporary fashion, earning rave reviews.

The impact extended beyond the runway. Over 200 metres of handwoven cotton were used, directly benefiting artisans. Social media buzz, driven by a Beninese photographer’s striking visuals, amplified the collection’s visibility, leading to increased inquiries and sales for the designers. Artisans also expressed eagerness to continue collaborating with designers.

‘Seeing our fabric in these beautiful designs brought us immense joy,’ said Déhanatou Taïrou, from Espace Tissage Djougou in Benin. ‘It reminded us of the value of our craft and its ability to create something truly global.’

The collaboration isn’t just a one-off – it fits into a longer-term strategy of creating sustainable, 100% cotton fashion looks sourced and made in Africa. Designers are keen to renew the experience.

‘In our work process, we use local cotton fabric that is 100% cotton, and this collaboration has been interesting and fits perfectly within our line of action,’ says Nadia.

‘We particularly appreciated the clarity and sharpness of the patterns despite the weight of the woven fabrics. The fabric had a good flexibility and structure, which made it easy to handle. We continued the collaboration with a weaver from northern Benin for the supply of raw woven fabric, using both manual and industrial spinning, with organic cotton.”

Promoting African cotton globally

Potential follow-ups include capsule collections and international exhibitions to further promote African cotton on the global stage.

‘This collaboration is just the beginning. It’s about creating a sustainable ecosystem where African artisans and designers can thrive together,’ said Elvis Sanya, one of the participating designers from SEAN NOBAYO, in Benin.

This initiative exemplified how partnerships across the value chain can elevate African cotton, from farm to fashion – showcasing the beauty of African textiles and laying the groundwork for a more sustainable and inclusive fashion industry.

About the project

The ACP Business-Friendly Programme is funded by the European Union and the Organisation of African, Caribbean and Pacific States (OACPS) and jointly implemented by ITC’s Alliances for Action, the World Bank and UNIDO. It seeks to improve the ability of agribusiness firms in ACP countries to compete, grow and prosper in domestic, regional, and international markets. Through the Alliances for Action approach, it promotes inclusive and sustainable agricultural value chains that value all stakeholders from farm to shelf.