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13th International IFOAM Scientific Conference

Basel, Switzerland, August 2000

Coffee - Organic certification and labelling

 

by Mr. Morten Scholer, Senior Market Development Adviser, International Trade Centre UNCTAD/WTO.

 

Introduction 

 

Certification of coffee as organic differs in several manners from certification of other products. Most producers are smallholders, there are many steps of processing and there are other labels of sustainability that can confuse the consumer.

Material and methods

For almost 40 years, ITC has assisted developing countries with practical advice and guidance in exports – primarily of food and agro-related commodities. This includes publication of many handbooks, one of which is: "Organic Food and Beverages – World Supply and Major European Markets" from late 1999. In May 2000, a three-year project on production and marketing of gourmet coffee, "The Gourmet Coffee Project", was completed in cooperation with producers in Brazil, Burundi, Ethiopia, Papua New Guinea and Uganda as well as importers, roasters and organizations in USA, Europe and Japan. Participants have learned how to improve quality of the products and add value for all parties involved.

Latin American countries dominate among producers of certified organic coffee. Asia and in particular Africa are lagging behind. Uganda and Malawi are among the few African suppliers and quantities are small. ITC is currently assisting Ethiopia in setting up a national certifier for organic coffee. The information in this paper is gathered from The Gourmet Coffee Project and the preparations for certifying coffee from Ethiopia as organic.

Results and discussion

Coffee differs from other tropical products that are certified organic. Here are five areas:

1. Coffee goes through several physical treatments in both producing and consuming countries. Coffee berries are harvested and pulped. They are often washed, then fermented, dried and sorted. And finally roasted, ground and packed. The entire chain is to be documented, which can involve more than one certifier and be very costly. By use of local inspectors and certifiers, the costs can be reduced.

2. Smallholders cultivate around 75% of the world’s total coffee area. In Africa, it is more than 90%. Smallholders often live spread in remote areas. Provisions for inspection and certification differ from those applied to single operators. IFOAM’s Accreditation Programme Criteria for Smallholder Certification are very relevant when setting up a national certifier for coffee in Ethiopia. Various methods of inspection are well described in Gunnar Rundgren’s book: Building Trust in Organics, published by IFOAM.

3. Several alternative or supplementary labels exist for coffee. Most common is that of Fair Trade – in some countries called Max Havelaar. This movement supports the social and economic situation of producers in developing countries. Its labels have been used in Europe for more than ten years but are new in the US. However, already a couple of years ago the Americans were introduced to the Bird Friendly coffee, sometimes called Shade Grown. Under certain conditions, coffee can receive this label if grown in forest-like vegetation. Coffees can be labeled (1) organic, (2) Fair Trade and (3) Bird Friendly. This has created a certain label confusion and label fatigue among consumers.

To add to the confusion there are different organic labels. Attempts to create a "super label" for fully sustainable coffees have failed so far.

4. In many countries a very high portion of coffee is basically organic – BUT not certified organic. A recent study shows that probably more than 90% of the coffee grown in Ethiopia is organic – but there is no certification system.

5. Coffee is pulped, often washed, fermented, dried, roasted, ground and eventually diluted in boiling water – so only 2% of what is consumed is the original product: coffee. Quite different from eating an apple or a cucumber !! The dominating argument for consumers when selecting organic products is: Fear of undesirable chemicals ! – in his/her own body or in nature. In the case of coffee, the real beneficiary of consumers selecting organic might (?) well be the smallholder or plantation worker who is spared from handling chemicals – undesirable to his/her health.

Conclusions

Certifying coffee as organic is different from certifying other products – for various reasons.

It is costly, as the chain from field to cup is very long. Use of local inspectors and certifiers does reduce costs. The many labels for sustainability confuse consumers. A super label has been considered but is unlikely to be introduced in the near future, if ever. In many countries, coffee is organic by nature, but not certified.