Coffee differs from other tropical products that
are certified organic. Here are five areas:
1. Coffee goes through several
physical treatments in both producing and consuming countries.
Coffee berries are harvested and pulped. They are often washed, then
fermented, dried and sorted. And finally roasted, ground and packed.
The entire chain is to be documented, which can involve more
than one certifier and be very costly. By use of local
inspectors and certifiers, the costs can
be reduced.
2. Smallholders cultivate
around 75% of the world’s total coffee area. In Africa, it is more
than 90%. Smallholders often live spread in remote areas. Provisions
for inspection and certification differ from those applied to single
operators. IFOAM’s Accreditation Programme
Criteria for Smallholder Certification are very relevant
when setting up a national certifier for coffee in Ethiopia. Various
methods of inspection are well described in Gunnar Rundgren’s book: Building
Trust in Organics, published by IFOAM.
3. Several alternative or
supplementary labels exist for coffee. Most common is that of
Fair Trade – in some countries called Max Havelaar. This movement
supports the social and economic situation of producers in developing
countries. Its labels have been used in Europe for more than ten years
but are new in the US. However, already a couple of years ago the
Americans were introduced to the Bird Friendly coffee, sometimes
called Shade Grown. Under certain conditions, coffee can receive this
label if grown in forest-like vegetation. Coffees can be labeled (1)
organic, (2) Fair Trade and (3) Bird Friendly. This has created a
certain label confusion and label fatigue among consumers.
To add to the confusion there are different organic
labels. Attempts to create a "super label" for fully
sustainable coffees have failed so far.
4. In many countries a very
high portion of coffee is basically organic – BUT not
certified organic. A recent study shows that probably more than 90% of
the coffee grown in Ethiopia is organic – but there is no
certification system.
5. Coffee is pulped, often washed, fermented,
dried, roasted, ground and eventually diluted in boiling water – so only
2% of what is consumed is the
original product: coffee. Quite different from eating an apple
or a cucumber !! The dominating argument for consumers when selecting
organic products is: Fear of undesirable chemicals ! – in his/her
own body or in nature. In the case of coffee, the real beneficiary of
consumers selecting organic might (?) well be the smallholder or
plantation worker who is spared from handling chemicals –
undesirable to his/her health.